Myanmar 2007

“This is Burma, and it will be quite unlike any land you know” - Rudyard Kipling

A few observations on my latest visit to Myanmar:

1. Air travel within the country has dramatically improved. In the ‘80s the only airline was government run and you were lucky if you had a complete seat belt; often there was only one strap. Safety record was terrible and parts would be cannibalized from one plane to keep another running. Once in Bagan I was stuck (pleasantly) for a few days because there were no parts left to cannibalize for the next leg of the flight to Mandalay. It’s all very different now with new planes and service as good as the other Southeast Asian airlines. And the timetables are no longer guesswork.

2. Hotels are vastly improved since earlier trips and a few now rank with the best in the region. All hotels used to be run by the government and throughout the country the daily rate was $ 29. When you arrived at an airport you would be assigned a hotel so there was no advance booking. The 3 reserved for foreigners in Rangoon (now Yangon) were the Strand, Thamada (across from the train station) and Inya Lake. I stayed at all three and none was better than another. In the years before World War II the Strand was one of Asia’s grand hotels in a class with the Cathay in Shanghai and Raffles in Singapore. Now again beautifully restored the rooms (actually suites) at the Strand are $450 and up. For much less I stayed at the Governor’s Residence, also 5-star with top quality service and food.

3. The temples at Bagan remain awesome and rival Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. However Angkor now has roughly 1.3 million visitors yearly, up almost 30% from my last visit in 2005. For those who enjoy temple ruins go to Bagan before it’s too late. A couple of hundred visitors spread over 3,000 temples means plenty of space to enjoy this magnificent setting. On all my trips I’ve stayed at the Thiripsyitsaya hotel on the banks of the Irrarwady River and it remains a favorite - now run as a joint venture with the Japanese Sakura chain.

4. Along with Bagan no one should miss Inle Lake, a large body of water which at dawn or dusk can seem truly a mirage. There are 17 island villages built on stilts, each specializing in a trade like silk weaving, pottery or silver and also here farmers grow flowers, fruits and vegetables in incredibly fertile lake soil. Inle Lake is also famous for its boatmen who propel their boats by standing on one leg and wrapping the other around the oar. This is a magical place without crowds (yet) and my choice to stay is the Inle Lake Princess hotel built on a series of canals that are part of the lake. This region is also wine country and the reds are surprisingly good.

5. A final reason I return to Myanmar is to visit the awesome Shwedagon Pagoda in the heart of Yangon. This is a great golden dome or stupa rising 300 or so feet built at least 2500 years ago as a religious shrine. It consists of a series of platforms or pavilions filled with statues, temples and smaller stupa. It has been described accurately as “quiet and contemplative, or colorful and raucous”. It is a center of everyday life in the city unlike so many monuments that attract primarily tourists. The only change I noticed in 18 years is laser beams have replaced twinkling lights around the dozens of religious symbols. Anyplace else the Schwedagon would cry out Las Vegas but in Yangon it is pure magic. Be sure to visit in the evening when the lighting against the gold of the stupa is at its best.

With the exception of Vientiane, Laos the capital cities of Southeast Asia are having a building boom. But Yangon still with extensive parks and gardens lags well behind Hanoi and Phnom Penh in development. If the country intrigues you and you are somewhat adventurous this is probably the time to follow in Kipling’s footsteps and be surprised at what you find.

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Myanmar 2007

Thanks for your info. I am intending to travel to Myanmar in a couple of weeks. I only have a week - where would you recommend I go. I assume both Yangon and Bagan - however is Mandalay also worthwhile?

cheers

Myanmar 2007

Yes, I would recommend Mandalay as my 4th choice after Yangon, Bagan and Inle Lake but my only visit to the city was 25 years ago. I think it has become more commercial as trade with China has expanded so I suspect it is not as laid back as earlier. This year my plane from Bagan to Inle Lake stopped at Mandalay and if you can arrange a similar flight you could overnight in Mandalay before going on to the lake. If you have 7 nights total you might think of 2 in Yangon (perhaps going and coming), 2 each at Bagan and Inle Lake and 1 for Mandalay.

I have fond memories of Phnom Penh, strolling along the Mekong and enjoying the museum. Now I hear there%26#39;s a building boom taking place. So good you will see Myanmar before it%26#39;s too late!

All very nice for you BUT what about ';the lady'; still banged up after all these years...why not listen to her advice to STAY AWAY ...she IS the democratically elected leader after all..

Thanks for your extremely thoughtful impressions. Did you get to Mandalay? If so, was it worthwhile? Despite recent events, I am planning a trip to Myanmar in December and am torn between Inle and Mandalay. (Don%26#39;t have time for both.)

stugletKent, please do not mix with politic. Only a few dollars go to government and meantime, the people are suffer between both side. It is not easy for the people with empty stomach , waiting for democracy. A lot of people in Myanmar need tourist dollars for their life to continue.

leloir,

Mandalay is center of culture and Inle is with beautiful science and wonderful way of Inle people life . Both wroth while.

A very poignant reminder of the reality, by mgzaymin%26#39;s entry.

Khayeethe.

We travelled in Burma for three weeks and visited most of the major sites such as Rangoon, Inle Lake, Mandalay and Bagan. We loved each and every one of these places and found that each had its own special charm.

Mandalay was definately one of the most amazing places we visited in Burma and perhaps we could say the week we spent here over Christmas was the highlight of the whole trip. Shopping in Mandalay, visiting the Mahamuni Paya, Amarapura %26amp; the U Bein Bridge, Saigang%26#39;s monastaries, Minguin%26#39;s Paya, Inwa and U Bein Bridge was the most incredible experience.

If I was to return to Burma I would definately make Mandalay a priority. I would highly recommend it!

Happy travels!

Kat

It has been about 5 years since I was in Myanmar. My wife and I had gotten to the top of a temple in Mandalay. We were admiring the peaceful view when our guide was approached my a few young men who asked him if they could practice their English with us. The first question, to my American wife: ';Why are you so fat? Don%26#39;t you take exercise?';

Perhaps 3 of the skinny young men put together would have equalled one of us. Everyone else in Myarmar were very polite and respectful, exactly what we were expecting.